Throughout my time in Sri Lanka I’ve two objectives: to go to the American ambassador (who’s one among my best-good associates and I’ll brag about her till the day I die) and drive a tuk tuk. After spending just a few days with my pal and her bodyguards in her armored BMW, I strike out by myself and hire my dream financial system automobile—a basic shitbox. Or shit-triangle, because the case could also be.

What the heck is a tuk tuk?

The three-wheeled tuk tuk is a cross between a motorbike and a really small automobile. Its entrance wheel is steered by a set of motorbike handlebars, whereas the ability goes to the 2 rear wheels through a 4-speed handbook transmission. It has a canvas roof, roll-down plastic doorways for rain, and a windshield with a single wiper blade. A bench seat within the rear takes up all the 51.0-inch width and the entrance has a single seat. Its tiny 200-cc engine is nice for 10 hp and a modicum of torque. A number of firms make them, however mine was manufactured by Bajaj out of India.

A rental firm delivers my tuk tuk within the attractive fort city of Galle and sends somebody to point out me the ropes. To begin it, I simply flip the important thing and provides it a tiny little bit of fuel. I attempt to rev it exhausting at first and my tuk-tuk tutor offers me a verbal slap on the wrist. I’ve nearly flooded the engine.

Like a conventional bike, the fitting foot operates the brake and the clutch is manipulated by the left hand. Nonetheless, there isn’t any brake lever for my proper hand and no gear lever for my left foot. As an alternative, gear modifications are carried out by twisting the left deal with, and, sorry, however the one brake is up entrance. Good luck!

Like a motorbike, impartial may be robust to seek out, however shifting into reverse is the actual pickle. To get going, I’ve to shift into impartial, interact an enormous lever that pushes down from the sprint, after which put the tuk tuk in first. Truthfully, it’s simpler to simply get out and push. This factor weighs lower than 800 kilos, in any case. 

I’ve few luxuries right here—seat belts, for one, but additionally a USB port and a mobile phone holder that’s nearly safe. 

I get some good follow within the practically car-free walled part of Galle. Sri Lankans drive on the left facet of the street, and it takes me a scorching second to get used to it, generally straying to the fitting facet whereas I consider shifting. Regardless, I’ve Google Maps downloaded offline and my objective is to simply drive and see what occurs. My solely plan is to be at my subsequent lodge in time to benefit from the pool for some time. 

First drive: Tuk tuk to tea

I resolve to go to the Handunugoda tea plantation, traversing the two-lane street that runs alongside the coast line. If texting and driving is harmful within the States, it’s double jeopardy right here. Lanes are mere solutions and other people use all accessible house to get to their vacation spot. Stray canine dart onto the street usually, folks flip in entrance of me, and if I’m not being handed by a bus belching out diesel smoke then I’m caught behind one, respiratory the fumes. 

The roads to the plantation are all paved, however issues get a bit extra dodgy on the best way to my lodge. First, the street will get tough, then barely extensive sufficient for my tuk tuk, then all pavement disappears, changed by rutted mud.

“That’s superb,” I believe. “I’m a podium-winning off-road driver. I can deal with this.”

I downshift and gun it—possibly a little bit an excessive amount of. I’m driving like I’m making an attempt to get a heavy-duty truck as a substitute of a light-weight runabout via the mud. Some mud splatters into the door-less cabin and the rear slides round only a contact, however the tuk tuk handles it like a champ.

Get to know the locals

The subsequent day the tuk tuk brings me on a brand new journey with just a few locals. A fruit vendor retrieves my cellphone when it bounces out of the tuk tuk on a busy avenue. As a thanks I purchase a watermelon, throwing it into the small storage space behind the rear seat. I don’t actually have a approach to eat mentioned watermelon, however what the heck. It might come in useful as a bargaining chip later. 

A bit farther down the street I cease to speak with a bunch of tuk-tuk drivers and I’m instantly surrounded by a dozen dudes, peppering me with questions. The place am I from? Why am I driving a tuk tuk? How do I like Sri Lanka? 

One in every of them decides he’s going to check my driving expertise. He jumps within the backseat and directs me out to the busy four-lane avenue. Once I don’t sign quickly sufficient he reaches over my shoulder to flip the swap. He chides me for driving too quick however praises me for my right-hand turns into visitors. The subsequent factor I do know I’ve apparently agreed to get him a visa to come back to America. I don’t suppose my sarcasm is known by the Sri Lankans. The poor man may nonetheless be ready for me to come back again and marry him.

Oops, I stalled it once more

Later that day, my confidence buoyed by the skilled tuk-tuk driver’s reward, I resolve to take the lead in a right-hand activate to a busy avenue. Driving on the left facet of the street means a proper flip takes me throughout visitors. Normally I simply wait till one thing larger can be making the flip, then I simply associate with them. This time, I lead the pack. And I stall it.

I’m mainly sitting in visitors like a rock with automobiles flowing round me making their proper turns and an enormous ol’ truck looming towards me in a broadside place. I panic a tiny bit and attempt to restart the tuk tuk.

Why received’t it begin?

Ah shit! I’m in first gear. Okay, impartial, impartial, impartial! How do I put it in impartial once more? I can see the truck driver’s eyes now. There is no such thing as a anger or annoyance. It’s like he runs over dumb People who can’t drive each day. 

I get the tuk tuk began and scoot out of his method simply in time, however I’m sweating like a mofo and my coronary heart goes a billion miles a minute. Time to chill out with a $12 therapeutic massage on the native ayurvedic spa. 

Tuk tuk terrific

I beloved driving the tuk tuk for the sense of freedom it gave me, but additionally as a result of it introduced me a bit nearer to the locals. Would I ever have had the prospect to joke round with a bunch of drivers had I not been driving the three-wheeled shit triangle? In all probability not. Driving a working-class automobile, feeling the humidity within the air, smelling the curry, listening to the myriad horns in visitors as people made their method across the island was infinitely higher than being ensconced in my ambassador pal’s air-conditioned luxurious SUV. Was it harmful? Meh. Possibly. Even after I stalled in visitors, native drivers simply went round me. The massive truck would have accomplished the identical had I not gotten going once more. Even touring as a single lady I by no means received harassed or felt unsafe. The folks have been pleasant and curious. 

Whereas the fee to hire a tuk tuk in Sri Lanka can begin as little as $14 per day, my three-day journey was a bit extra. My journey plans meant I couldn’t choose up or drop off the automobile on the major workplace, in order that was a $70 upcharge on both facet. My quick rental interval value me $90. I additionally paid the rental firm $40 to obtain my Sri Lankan driver’s license. All informed, I spent $270, and my $150 deposit was refunded.

Electrical tuk tuks are additionally accessible, however I didn’t need the additional stress of determining learn how to cost. I do not know what number of miles I drove in whole, however the little man took 4 liters of petrol after I was accomplished, or a couple of gallon. I paid $1.10 per liter, rather less than what I pay for fuel in California.

I beloved my tuk tuk a lot I instantly signed up for one more journey, this time for 12 days driving a tuk tuk throughout India with The Adventurists. It is going to undoubtedly be tougher, climbing the Himalayas in that tiny factor and hauling round tenting gear and three folks, however love makes folks do some fairly dumb issues.